Верхом на гигантах (Riding Giants)
Описание: Отличный фильм про становление современной серф-культуры, зарождение и развитие катания на огромных волнах как отдельного вида серфинга. Про все это рассказывают те, кто стоял у истоков современного серфинга и легенды тау-серфинга: Greg Noll, Jeff Clark, Gerry Lopez, Laird John Hamilton и многие другие.
"Riding Giants" traces the history of surfing, at least in and around the USA, beginning about 1000 years ago, when history tells us early Hawaiians began using some type of board to ride the surf. But the movie begins in earnest in the 1950s, when 20-something surfers like Greg Noll became what was commonly called "beach bums" and surfed every day, all day, if they could.
An interesting fact presented is the influence of the "Gidget" movies with Sandra Dee, and similar movies which followed. While they presented an unrealistic, fantasy viewpoint of the surfing scene, they became the catalyst for the surfing explosion. Withing a few years from the late 1950s to the early 1960, the number of surfers went from a few thousand to a few million.
One of the producers of "Riding Giants" is Laird Hamilton, professional surfer, generally considered the best of the big wave surfers. The movie ends with him, profiling how he got into surfing as a young boy, and how he and his buddies invented the modern method of big wave surfing, being towed into a wave by jet ski, which also became the rescue boat. With this method they are now able to surf big, fast moving waves that are impossible to access the conventional way. Plus, this has allowed them to use much smaller boards, similar to snow boards, for more speed and agility.
Overall a very well-made and fascinating look at surfing. My favorite was Greg Noll who today is a heavy, round-faced older man in his 60s, but many film clips from the 50s and 60s showed him in action, considered the best of his generation. His present day interviews are both enlightening and very funny.
Год выпуска: 2004
Продолжительность: 1:41
Участники: Jeff Clark, Darrick Doerner, Laird John Hamilton, Dave Kalama, David H. Kalama Jr., Brian L. Keaulana, Buzzy Kerbox, Titus Kinimaka, Gerry Lopez, Mickey Munoz, Greg Noll, Gabrielle Reece, Evan Slater, Kelly Slater, Darryl Virostko, Mike Waltze, Grant Washburn
